Is it difficult to replace drum brakes?
Not daunting for a capable DIYer, but the difficulty varies by vehicle and condition. With the right tools and patience, you can replace rear drum brakes yourself and save on labor costs.
Drum brakes use shoes that press outward against the inner surface of a rotating drum to stop the wheel. The rear axle often uses drum brakes and many cars pair them with a mechanical parking brake. Replacing them involves shoes, a wheel cylinder, springs, and hardware, and the exact steps can differ by make and model. The job's challenge rises with corrosion, seized components, or a vehicle with an integrated or limited-access drum assembly.
Understanding drum brakes and replacement basics
Drum brakes use brake shoes housed inside a round drum. The shoes are pushed outward to contact the drum as the brakes are applied. Most drum-brake rear assemblies include an automatic or manual parking brake mechanism, a wheel cylinder to actuate the shoes, return springs, and a star-wheel adjuster to maintain proper shoe-to-drum clearance. Replacement typically centers on new shoes, hardware, and sometimes a fresh wheel cylinder and/or drums if wear is excessive. While the concept is simple, exact steps and hardware configurations vary by vehicle.
How difficult is the job?
The basic replacement is within reach for many DIY enthusiasts, especially on older or straightforward drum-brake setups. However, several factors can raise the level of difficulty: stubborn drums, corroded springs, seized hardware, a leaking or seized wheel cylinder, and rear parking-brake linkages that add steps. On some newer vehicles, access can be tight or the drum assembly is integrated with other systems, making professional service a more practical option.
Key factors that influence difficulty
Several factors determine how hard it will be to replace drum brakes. The following list highlights the most common ones.
- Vehicle design and axle layout: some cars provide easy access, others require more disassembly or special tools.
- Condition of existing hardware: rusted springs, pins, and a binding adjuster can complicate removal.
- Wheel cylinder condition: leaking or seized cylinders may need replacement and brake bleeding.
- Drum condition: stuck, oversized, or deeply scored drums can be difficult to remove or refit with new shoes.
- Access to tools and workspace: proper jack stands, lighting, and the right pulling/plunger tools reduce time and risk.
- Parking brake integration: if the system uses cables or levers, there are additional steps to adjust and test.
- Corrosion and age: older vehicles often present seized components and brittle hardware.
Knowing these factors helps you gauge whether you can tackle the job safely and effectively or if you should seek professional service.
What you’ll need and how to prepare
Before you start, gather the right tools, parts, and safety gear. Preparing properly reduces the chance of mistakes and helps ensure proper brake performance after the repair.
Tools and parts you'll typically need include:
- Jack, jack stands, and wheel chocks
- Lug wrench or impact wrench for removing wheels
- Brake shoe kit for each drum (shoes, springs, pins, and adjuster)
- Wheel cylinder kit (if you’re replacing the cylinder) or a new wheel cylinder
- Brake cleaner and rags to remove grease and dust
- Brake hardware pliers, needle-nose pliers, screwdrivers, and a brake spoon or adjuster tool
- Torque wrench and any vehicle-specific torque specs
- Brake fluid and containers for bleeding (if cylinder is replaced)
- A light hammer or rubber mallet and penetrating oil for stubborn components
With these tools and parts on hand, you’ll be prepared to begin the replacement with fewer interruptions.
Step-by-step: typical rear-drum brake replacement
Below is a typical sequence for replacing rear drum brakes on many vehicles. Always consult your specific vehicle’s manual for precise steps, diagrams, and torque specs, as configurations can vary.
- Park on a level surface, chock the wheels, and loosen the lug nuts; raise the vehicle and support it securely with jack stands.
- Remove the wheel and inspect the drum for wear, scoring, or damage.
- If the drum is stuck, lightly tap around the edge with a rubber mallet to free it; remove the drum.
- Check the backing plate, springs, and wheel cylinder for damage or leaks; replace the wheel cylinder if needed.
- Remove old brake shoes by releasing the return springs and hold-down springs; note the order or take photos as a reference.
- Detach the wheel-cylinder line and push rod if you’re replacing the wheel cylinder; ensure you don’t leak brake fluid.
- Install the new wheel cylinder (if applicable) and connect the brake line; bleed the line if the cylinder was replaced.
- Attach the new shoes to the backing plate, following the correct orientation; install the return springs, anchor pins, and the adjuster as required by the design.
- Reassemble the hardware and adjust the shoes so they lightly drag the drum when turned by hand; verify the drum will fit over the shoes.
- Reinstall the drum and use the star wheel to set the proper clearance; ensure the drum spins freely with a slight drag.
- Bleed the brakes if the wheel cylinder was replaced; top off and bleed as necessary, starting with the farthest wheel from the master cylinder.
- Test the brake system at very low speeds in a safe area to verify proper function and parking-brake operation before regular driving.
These steps provide a general framework. If you encounter tight or seized components, do not force parts into place; consult a repair manual or a professional for guidance.
Special considerations for certain vehicles
Some vehicles introduce additional complexity. Cars with electronic parking brakes or rear drum brakes tied into an integrated ABS system may require special procedures or diagnostic tools. Others use a drum-in-hat design where the drum is part of a rotor assembly, which can demand different removal techniques. Always check the service manual for torque specs, bleed procedures, and any manufacturer-recommended cautions. If the parking brake linkage or cables are involved, ensure proper adjustment after the repair so the brake holds reliably and releases cleanly.
Maintenance tips to avoid future issues
Preventive care can extend the life of rear drum brakes and reduce future work. Consider these practices:
- Avoid getting oil or grease on brake shoes or the inside of the drums; contamination dramatically reduces braking efficiency.
- Inspect and replace worn hardware before it fails, and replace the wheel cylinders if there are any signs of leakage.
- Regularly check the parking brake for proper operation and adjust as needed so it holds the vehicle without excessive travel.
- Keep drums and shoes clean when servicing; use brake cleaner and avoid touching the shiny surface of the drum with bare hands.
- After replacement, test the brakes in a controlled environment and re-check for proper pedal feel and stopping power.
Regular inspections and cautious maintenance help prevent surprises and extend the life of drum brake components.
Summary
Replacing drum brakes is accessible to many DIY enthusiasts, but the level of difficulty hinges on vehicle design, corrosion, and the condition of the hardware. With proper preparation, the right tools, and careful adherence to manual specifications, a rear-drum brake job can be completed safely and cost-effectively. If parts are seized, the drum is deeply worn, or the vehicle uses a complex parking-brake arrangement, professional service is a prudent option.
How long does it take to replace a brake drum?
Replacing drum brakes on a single axle typically takes 2 to 3 hours for an average car, but can be shorter or longer depending on factors like the mechanic's experience, tools available, and if other components need replacing. A professional mechanic may estimate 1.5 to 2 hours per axle for a standard job.
Factors that influence the time:
- Experience: A skilled DIY mechanic or professional may complete the job in as little as one hour for a simple rear drum replacement, while an inexperienced person could take all day.
- Tools: Having the right tools, like drum brake pliers and a lift, can significantly speed up the process.
- Vehicle complexity: Some vehicles, especially heavy-duty trucks, may require more time due to the size and complexity of the braking system.
- Additional repairs: If the wheel cylinder, springs, or other related components need to be replaced at the same time, the job will take longer.
- Problematic drums: If the drums are rusted, seized, or damaged, extra time will be needed to remove them and address the issue.
Are brake drums hard to replace?
It's not difficult once you've done it but it could be daunting for a first-timer. Sometimes there's a screw that holds the drum to the hub which will need an impact driver to remove. Drums may be reusable but you'll need shoes, hardware and wheel cylinders to do it properly.
What is the 30/30/30 rule for brakes?
The 30/30/30 rule for brakes is a method for properly "bedding-in" new brake pads and rotors, which involves making 30 gradual stops from 30 mph, with a 30-second cooling period between each stop. This process helps create an even transfer layer of brake pad material onto the rotor surface, ensuring optimal performance and preventing issues like brake fade and glazed pads.
How to perform the 30/30/30 rule
- Find a safe area: Locate an open, lightly trafficked road or a large, empty parking lot.
- Warm up the brakes: Drive for a few minutes to bring the brakes up to a normal operating temperature.
- Start the procedure: Accelerate smoothly to about 30 mph.
- Make the first stop: Apply moderate, firm pressure to slow the vehicle down to about 5-10 mph, but do not come to a complete stop. Avoid hard or emergency stops.
- Cool down: Release the brake and allow the brakes to cool for 30 seconds.
- Repeat: Repeat the process of stopping and cooling for a total of 30 times.
- Complete the break-in: After the 30 stops, drive for about 300 to 500 miles while avoiding hard or aggressive braking to allow the new components to fully settle in.
Can I change my own drum brakes?
To replace drum brakes, take safety precautions, remove and inspect the brake drum, disassemble the brake drum and remove the brake shoes, remove the parking brake cable retainer clip, clean and reinstall the brake shoes and components, install the new brake drum, and install the wheel and tire.
