Why is my power window not going up and down?

Typically the issue is a blown fuse, a faulty window switch, or a failing motor or regulator. Start by checking the fuse and relay, then test the switch, and if needed inspect the window motor and regulator.

In this article, we explore the common causes of power window failure, how to diagnose the problem step by step, and practical fixes you can try—whether you’re dealing with a single stubborn window or a car with all windows acting up.

Common causes of power window failure

Understanding the typical culprits helps prioritize checks and avoid unnecessary repairs.

• Blown fuse or faulty relay


• Faulty window switch or master switch (including lock-out features)


• Failing window motor or damaged window regulator


• Damaged wiring, poor ground, or corroded connectors in the door harness


• Mechanical obstruction or damaged window tracks


• Moisture or corrosion inside the door assembly


• Faulty door control module or body control module in modern vehicles


• Low battery voltage or charging system issues affecting overall electrical supply

Diagnosing the exact cause usually starts with power supply checks and progresses toward the door’s internal components. If more than one window is affected, the fault is more likely in the main power pathway or control module rather than a single motor.

Steps to diagnose the problem

Here is a practical step-by-step approach used by DIYers and technicians to isolate the issue.

1. Locate and inspect the power window fuse and any related relays in the vehicle’s fuse/relay box. If the fuse is blown, replace it with the correct amperage and test the window again.


2. Check the window lock/out switch and the master switch for being engaged or damaged, which can prevent any window from moving.


3. Test for voltage at the window switch. Use a multimeter or test light with the key in the on position and press the switch up and down. If there is no voltage at the switch, the problem lies upstream (fuse, relay, wiring, or switch itself).


4. If voltage reaches the switch, test the window motor terminals directly (behind the door panel). If the motor does not receive power or the motor hums or stalls with power, the motor or regulator is likely bad.


5. Check the door ground and wiring in the door harness. A loose ground or pinch in the wires where the door flexes can interrupt the circuit.


6. Inspect the door panel and window track for obstructions or debris that could physically bind the glass. Clear any debris and lubricate the tracks with a light silicone-based lubricant if appropriate.


7. For a single stubborn window, remove the interior door panel to access the regulator and motor. Manually test the regulator for smooth operation and check connector plugs for corrosion.


8. If all windows refuse to move, test the vehicle’s battery voltage and inspect the main power feed to the window system, as low voltage or a faulty body control module can disable multiple circuits.

If you’ve followed these steps and still can’t identify the problem, or if you’re uncomfortable working with door panels and electrical systems, it’s time to consult a professional.

Do-it-yourself fixes and safety tips

These practical repairs are common and can save you time and money, but proceed with caution and prioritize safety. Always disconnect the battery before removing a door panel to avoid shorts or airbag-related hazards.

• Replace a blown fuse or faulty relay with the correct rating specified for your vehicle.


• Replace a faulty window switch or master switch if testing confirms the switch is not sending power to the motor.


• Repair or replace a failing window motor or regulator only after confirming there is power to the motor and no mechanical binding.


• Repair damaged door wiring harnesses or replace damaged connectors; ensure the harness is properly routed to avoid future pinching.


• Clean and lubricate window tracks; ensure the glass moves freely when manually assisted after removing the panel.


• Address moisture or water intrusion by drying the door space and addressing sealing gaps to prevent future corrosion.

If you are unsure about any step, or if the vehicle uses advanced body control modules or CAN bus wiring, seek professional assistance to avoid accidental damage or safety risks.

When to seek professional help

Consider professional service if you notice burning smells, smoke, or a buzzing or grinding sound from the door area, if multiple windows fail after replacing fuses or switches, or if the car’s electrical system shows other odd symptoms. Modern vehicles with integrated control modules may require manufacturer-level diagnostics and software access.

Summary

Power window failures typically stem from a blown fuse or relay, a bad switch, a failing motor or regulator, or wiring issues within the door harness. A systematic diagnostic approach—starting with power supply checks, then the switch, then the motor/regulator, and finally the door wiring—helps identify the root cause. Simple fixes like replacing a fuse or switch can resolve the issue in many cases, but more complex problems may require professional inspection to ensure safety and proper operation.

How to tell if it's the window motor or switch?

To tell if a window switch or motor is bad, first check the switch's physical condition and listen for the motor when you press the switch. If you hear the motor running but the window doesn't move, the motor is likely bad. If you hear grinding or clicking noises, or if the window moves very slowly, it is often the motor or regulator. If only one window is affected and all other windows work, the issue is likely with that specific switch, motor, or regulator.
 
How to diagnose a bad switch 
This video demonstrates how to diagnose a bad window switch or motor by checking for power flow to the motor: 54sRockAuto Auto PartsYouTube · Apr 18, 2019

• Physical feel: A spongy, loose, or otherwise different feeling in the switch compared to the others can indicate a problem. 
• Master switch issues: If the other windows only work from the master switch, but not from their own door switches, the individual switches may be faulty. 
• Lack of power: If you press the switch and observe that your car's interior lights or dashboard indicators do not dim at all, it could mean the switch is not sending power to the motor. 
• The window moves: If you can confirm the window moves when using a different switch (like the master switch), the original window's switch is the likely culprit. 

How to diagnose a bad motor or regulator 
This video shows how to test if a window motor is working by bypassing the switch: 1mTop 5 Auto RepairsYouTube · Jun 6, 2023

• Motor noise: A grinding, clicking, or squealing noise coming from the door when you press the switch often indicates a problem with the motor or the window regulator, which is the mechanical part that lifts the glass. 
• Motor sound but no movement: If you hear the motor running (a humming sound) but the window doesn't move at all, the motor is likely bad. 
• Slow or jerky movement: A window that moves very slowly, jerks, or gets stuck halfway is often a sign of a struggling motor or a faulty regulator. 
• Burning smell: A burning smell coming from the door panel can indicate the motor is overheating and is on its way to failing. 

What to check first
You can watch this video to learn how to test a power window circuit: 58sJustin MillerYouTube · Mar 13, 2015

• Check the fuse: Before replacing any parts, it's a good idea to check the fuse for the power windows to make sure it hasn't blown. 
• Test all switches: Press the switch for the problem window and then test all other window switches. If other windows work correctly, the problem is isolated to that one window's switch, motor, or regulator. 

How much does it cost to fix a car window that won't go up or down?

A standard power window repair at a general automotive shop can cost between $400 – $600 depending on the vehicle. Most shops will opt to install a new window regulator and motor assembly even if the motor is fine. Why is that?

How can you tell if a window fuse is blown?

You can tell if a power window fuse is blown by a visual inspection or by testing it with a tool like a multimeter or test light. A blown fuse will have a broken or melted metal strip inside and will not show a reading on both sides when tested for continuity. If multiple windows aren't working, a single blown fuse is a likely culprit.
 
This video demonstrates how to check a window motor fuse: 34sCody the Car GuyYouTube · Jul 19, 2013
Visual inspection

• Locate the fuse box: Find the fuse box, which is usually under the dashboard or hood. The owner's manual will show its exact location and a diagram of the fuses. 
• Identify the power window fuse: The diagram will label the fuse for the power windows. If multiple windows aren't working, this is a good starting point. 
• Look for a broken or melted filament: Remove the fuse and inspect it. A good fuse has a continuous metal strip running through it. A blown fuse will have a broken, melted, or discolored (brown or black) metal strip, often with a visible break inside the clear plastic casing. 

Testing with tools

• Using a multimeter:
  • Set the multimeter to the ohms (Ωcap omegaΩ) setting to check for continuity. 
  • Touch the probes to the metal contacts on opposite ends of the fuse. 
  • If the fuse is good, the multimeter will show a reading close to zero ohms, indicating continuity. If it shows no reading or "OL," the fuse is blown. 
• Using a test light:
  • Turn the ignition on and ensure the power window switch is activated. 
  • Connect the test light's clip to a good ground source. 
  • Touch the test light's probe to the input side of the fuse. If the light turns on, there is power to the fuse. 
  • Move the probe to the output side. If the light turns on, the fuse is good. If it doesn't light up, the fuse is blown. 

This video explains how to check fuses using a test light: 55sBarbour's Auto HelpYouTube · Jul 16, 2019
Important considerations

• Replace with the correct amperage: When replacing a blown fuse, always use a new fuse with the exact same amperage rating as the original. Using a higher amperage fuse can be a fire hazard and cause damage to the electrical system. 
• Address the root cause: If a new fuse immediately blows again, there is a deeper problem in the circuit, such as a shorted wire, faulty motor, or switch. It's best to consult a mechanic to diagnose and fix the underlying issue. 

How do you fix a power window that won't go up or down?

To fix a car window that won't roll up or down, first check and disengage the window lock, then inspect the fuse for the window circuit and replace it if it's blown. If the problem persists, test the window switch by trying another window's switch, or check for obstructions, and then consider lubricating the tracks or seeking professional help for a potentially faulty motor or regulator.
 
Initial checks

• Check the safety lock: Locate the "window lock" or "child safety lock" button on the driver's side and make sure it's not engaged, as this prevents other windows from moving. 
• Restart the car: Turn the ignition off and on again. Sometimes, this can reset the window's electronic system. 
• Try other switches: Use the master switch on the driver's side to try to operate the window. If it works from the master switch, the problem is likely the switch on the door itself. 
• Check for obstructions: Clear any snow, ice, or debris from the window channel. If the window is stuck, you can try to carefully pull on the glass while someone presses the switch, or gently use a blow dryer on the seam between the window and the frame to loosen it. 

Electrical checks

• Inspect the fuse: Consult your owner's manual to find the fuse for the power windows. Turn the car off, pull the fuse, and replace it with a new one of the same amperage if it's blown. 
• Test the switch: If possible, swap the switch from a working window with the one that isn't working. If the window now operates, the original switch is faulty and needs replacing. 

This video demonstrates how to check the window switch and other electrical components: 36sAcura AdviceYouTube · Apr 29, 2023
Mechanical and advanced fixes

• Lubricate the tracks: Spray a silicone lubricant into the window tracks on both the inside and outside. Operate the window up and down several times to work the lubricant in, which can help with binding. 
• Check the motor and regulator: If the switch is working and the fuse is good, the problem may be a bad motor or a broken regulator (the mechanism that moves the window). This typically requires removing the door panel for inspection. If the motor hums but the window doesn't move, the regulator is likely the issue. If there's no sound, it could be the motor. 
• Seek professional help: If you've tried the above steps and the window still won't move, it's best to consult a professional. More complex repairs like replacing the motor or regulator can be tricky and may require special tools and expertise to avoid further damage.