Why starter clicks but wont start?

When you turn the key or press the start button and hear a quick series of clicks but the engine doesn’t turn over, the problem is usually electrical rather than mechanical. Most often the culprit is the battery or a poor electrical connection, but a failing starter, solenoid, ignition switch, or safety-related switch can also be to blame.

Common causes of a starter-click condition

These are the most frequent culprits you should consider before diving into more complex diagnostics.

• Weak or dead battery



• Faulty or dragging starter motor or solenoid


• Faulty starter relay or ignition switch


• Malfunctioning neutral/park safety switch or clutch safety switch


• Blown fuses or fusible link in the start circuit


• Poor engine ground or other wiring issues in the starting circuit


• Engine seizure or severe internal obstruction (rare, but possible)

In most cases, the starting issue begins with the battery or its connections. If the battery is old or discharged, clean or replace corroded terminals, and verify the alternator is charging properly. If the problem persists after addressing the battery and wiring, the starter or related components may need testing or replacement.

How to diagnose the issue safely

These steps help you methodically identify the root cause while minimizing risk. If you’re unsure or uncomfortable with any procedure, seek professional help.

1. Check the battery’s health: measure voltage with a multimeter. A fully charged, healthy battery at rest should read about 12.6 volts or more. If it’s significantly lower, charge or replace the battery before proceeding.


2. Inspect battery terminals and cables: look for corrosion, tightness, and any signs of wear. Clean and reconnect terminals, ensuring solid metal-to-metal contact. Check the main ground strap from the battery to the engine block for a clean, tight connection.


3. Test with a jump start or battery booster: if the engine cranks with a jump, the battery or charging system is likely at fault. If it still won’t crank, the issue may lie in the starter, solenoid, or start circuit.


4. Listen to the clicking pattern: a single hard click or a rapid clicking can indicate different problems. A single click often points to insufficient current (battery, cables, or poor ground), while rapid clicking generally means the starter is not getting enough current or is failing.


5. Check fuses and relays: locate the starter relay and corresponding fuses in the fuse box. Swap the relay with a known-good one or test it to rule out a faulty relay or blown fuse in the start circuit.


6. Verify safety switches and gear position: automatic transmissions require the transmission to be in Park/Neutral; manual transmissions require the clutch fully depressed. A faulty safety switch can prevent starting even if the battery is fine.


7. Inspect ignition components: a worn or faulty ignition switch or ignition wiring can fail to deliver power to the start circuit, producing a no-crank condition with clicks.


8. Consider immobilizer or anti-theft systems: some cars won’t crank if the key or fob isn’t recognized. Look for security indicators on the dash or check if the immobilizer light stays on.


9. Test the starter itself: if available, bench-test the starter off the vehicle or have a professional test it with specialized equipment to verify motor and solenoid function.

If you complete these checks and the vehicle still won’t start, it’s prudent to seek a professional diagnosis. Modern vehicles use integrated electronics and control modules, and a technician can perform a more advanced diagnostic to pinpoint whether the issue lies with the start circuit, the engine’s mechanical condition, or a software/immobilizer problem.

Summary

A starter that clicks but won’t start is usually an electrical problem, most often a weak battery or bad connections, but it can also involve the starter, solenoid, ignition switch, or safety/immobilizer systems. Start by testing the battery and cleaning/tightening terminals, then check the starter circuit, fuses, and safety switches. If the issue persists after these steps, professional diagnostic work is recommended to avoid misdiagnosis and potential damage.

Can a starter solenoid click and still be bad?

A single click with no engine turnover often indicates a faulty starter solenoid or weak battery. First, test battery voltage and connections for corrosion or looseness. If battery is good, inspect the solenoid for overheating signs and ensure proper wiring to the starter motor.

How do I know if my starter relay is blown?

A bad starter relay can cause the car not to start, but it might still have power (headlights on), or it might make a clicking sound when the key is turned. Other signs include the starter motor remaining engaged after the engine starts, or intermittent starting issues. You can test it by swapping it with a similar relay or using a multimeter to check for continuity and voltage.
 
Symptoms of a failing starter relay 
This video explains the symptoms of a bad starter relay: 59sVehicle FreakYouTube · Nov 18, 2022

• Engine won't start: This is the most common symptom. You turn the key, and nothing happens, or you may only hear a single click. 
• Clicking sound: A clicking noise when you turn the key can indicate a bad relay that is failing to send a full signal, but the starter motor doesn't engage. 
• Intermittent starting: The car starts sometimes but not others. This can happen if the relay's contacts are dirty or worn, making a poor connection. 
• Starter stays engaged: In some cases, the relay's contacts can get stuck, causing the starter motor to continue running after the engine has started. This can create a grinding or whining noise. 
• Dimming headlights: Headlights may dim significantly when you try to start the car, indicating a power draw issue, potentially from the relay or starter circuit. 

How to test a starter relay
This video demonstrates how to test a starter relay with a multimeter: 1mCarsNToysYouTube · Jan 22, 2020

1. Swap with a similar relay: If your car has other relays with the same part number, try swapping the starter relay with one of them. If the car now starts, the original relay was bad. 
2. Use a multimeter to test for continuity: A multimeter can check if the relay's internal contacts are working. 
   • You can also test the voltage at the relay's terminals while a helper turns the key to the start position. If there's voltage at the control terminals but no power at the starter terminal, the relay is likely bad. 
3. Listen for the click: A good relay should make a distinct clicking sound when it receives power. If you don't hear a click when you turn the key, and the battery is good, the relay is likely not working. 

Should I try tapping the starter with a hammer?

Hitting the starter with a hammer is a valid trick on old cars with old starters, but many new replacement starters come with a warning that says DO NOT HIT WITH HAMMER, as the magnets are held in only with adhesive, and can be dislodged if you smack them.

Why is my starter clicking but not starting?

A starter that clicks but won't start is typically caused by a dead or weak battery, poor battery connections, or a faulty starter motor or solenoid. A rapid clicking sound usually points to a weak battery, while a single click often indicates a faulty starter. To diagnose, first check and clean the battery terminals and try a jump-start; if it still fails to start, the issue is likely with the starter itself. 
You can watch this video to learn about the causes of clicking sounds when starting your car: 53s8020 AutomotiveYouTube · Sep 10, 2023
Common causes and what to check
This video explains how to diagnose a clicking car: 43sMaxTheCarGuyYouTube · Jul 23, 2023

• Dead or weak battery: This is the most common cause. The battery has enough power to engage the starter's relay or solenoid, but not enough to turn the engine. 
  • Action: Have the battery tested at an auto parts store. You can also try a jump-start; if the car starts, have the battery checked and replaced if necessary. 
• Corroded or loose battery terminals: These can prevent proper electrical flow, even with a good battery. 
  • Action: Inspect the battery terminals for corrosion. Clean them with a wire brush or sandpaper, and make sure the connections are tight. 
• Faulty starter or solenoid: If there is a single, loud click, it may mean the starter motor or its solenoid is bad. 
  • Action: If a jump-start doesn't work, the starter is the likely culprit. A temporary fix, if you're stuck, can sometimes be to gently tap the starter motor with a hammer while someone else tries to start the car. 
• Faulty alternator: A bad alternator won't charge the battery properly, leading to it draining and causing the clicking sound. 
  • Action: A professional can test the alternator to see if it's charging the battery correctly. 
• Wiring issues: Loose or damaged wiring or a bad starter relay can also cause this problem. 
  • Action: A professional can diagnose and fix any wiring or relay issues.