How do I know if I have a Class 1 or 2 hitch?

If you want a quick answer: most light-duty hitches that use a 1-1/4-inch receiver are either Class I or Class II, and the exact class is shown on the hitch label or in the manual. Class I tops out around 2,000 pounds gross trailer weight (GTW) and 200 pounds tongue weight (TW); Class II goes up to 3,500 pounds GTW and 350 pounds TW.

Understanding the difference between Class I and Class II

Class I and Class II hitch classifications mainly differ in towing capacity and the corresponding tongue weight. The easiest way to know which you have is to check the receiver size and the rating stamped on the hitch itself or documented in the vehicle’s manual. Here are the key points to look for.

Before you read the list, note that the classification is tied to both the receiver size and the weight limits. The current industry standard uses a 1-1/4-inch receiver for Class I and II hitches, and a 2-inch receiver for Class III and above. The exact class will be printed on the hitch or in the installation documentation, and it should also match the trailer’s weight requirements.

• Receiver opening size: Most Class I and Class II hitches use a 1-1/4-inch (31.75 mm) opening. If you see a 2-inch opening, you’re in the Class III/IV/V range, not Class I or II.


• Label or stamping: Look for a label or stamping on the hitch shank or crossmember that states “Class I” or “Class II,” or provides GTW and TW values (for example, 2,000 lbs GTW / 200 lbs TW for Class I, and 3,500 lbs GTW / 350 lbs TW for Class II).


• Documentation: The vehicle’s owner’s manual, hitch installation sheet, or the manufacturer’s specifications will specify the class you should use for towing with your setup.


• Mounted hardware: Some hitch balls and mounts carry the same class rating as the hitch; check the rating stamps on the hardware itself where present.

Concluding note: If the label clearly says Class I with a 2,000 lb GTW/200 lb TW, you have Class I. If it reads Class II with 3,500 lb GTW/350 lb TW, you have Class II. If there is no class designation on the hitch, confirm with the manufacturer or a towing professional before attaching a trailer.

Practical implications of choosing the right class

Using a hitch with a lower class than your trailer requires can lead to structural stress, sway, or failure. Conversely, using a higher-class hitch than needed won’t inherently improve safety and can add cost or weight. Always match the hitch’s rated capacity to the trailer’s GTW and TW, and factor in any weight distribution needs or added accessories.

How to determine your hitch class on your own

Use the following steps to confirm your Class I or Class II hitch without guessing.

1. Measure the interior diameter of the receiver opening with a ruler or caliper. A measurement close to 1-1/4 inch suggests Class I or II; a 2-inch opening points to Class III or higher.


2. Inspect the hitch for a rating label or engraving. Look for “Class I,” “Class II,” or GTW/TW numbers (for example, 2,000/200 or 3,500/350).


3. Check the vehicle’s owner’s manual or the hitch installation documentation for the recommended class and weight limits for your model.


4. Identify the hitch model number or manufacturer and contact the company if the label is worn or missing.


5. When in doubt, consult a qualified technician or towing professional to confirm the correct class for your trailer and vehicle combination.

Concluding guidance: Always operate within the lower of the two limits—the hitch rating and the trailer’s GTW/TW. If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 pounds but less than 3,500 pounds, you’ll need a Class II hitch; for lighter setups, Class I is typically sufficient.

What to do if you can’t find a clear label

In cases where the hitch lacks a legible label, use the model number or serial information to look up specifications online, or bring the hitch to a dealer or towing specialist who can identify its class. It’s important to avoid towing beyond the rated capacity, which can cause safety issues and damage to the hitch, vehicle frame, or trailer.

Summary

To determine whether you have a Class I or Class II hitch, check the receiver size (1-1/4 inch for both commonly, and 2 inches for higher classes) and look for a class designation or GTW/TW ratings stamped on the hitch or documented in the manual. Class I typically caps GTW at 2,000 pounds and TW at 200 pounds; Class II rises to 3,500 pounds GTW and 350 pounds TW. If labeling is unclear, consult the manufacturer or a towing professional, and always tow within the lowest rated limit of your equipment.

How do I know if my hitch is class 1 or 2?

Class 1 hitches are different from class 2 hitches in that, generally, class 1 hitches have a lower weight rating. While class 1 maxes out around 2,000 lbs., class 2 is typically rated up to 3,500 lbs.

How do I find out my hitch rating?

To find a hitch's rating, check for a sticker on the hitch itself, which shows the maximum gross trailer weight and tongue weight capacity. You can also find ratings for the hitch ball and ball mount on the component itself, such as the ball or shank. For factory-installed hitches without a sticker, consult your vehicle's owner's manual for the correct information. 
Where to find ratings
This video explains where to find hitch ratings on your vehicle: 56sU-Haul Trailer Hitches And TowingYouTube · Apr 15, 2024

• On the hitch receiver: Look for a sticker on the crossbar or receiver tube. It will have a "max gross" rating for the trailer weight and "tongue weight" capacity.
• On the ball mount: Check the label or stamp on the mounting plate or shaft that goes into the receiver.
• On the hitch ball: Look for a stamped weight on the top or around the base of the shank.
• In the owner's manual: If you have a factory-installed hitch without a visible sticker, the owner's manual is the best place to find the official ratings for your specific vehicle. 

What to do if there are multiple ratings
This video explains how to interpret multiple ratings on a hitch: 56sUHTechCenterYouTube · Jun 8, 2009

• If your hitch has different ratings for "weight carrying" and "weight distributing," you will need to use the "weight carrying" capacity for your calculations unless you are using a weight distributing system. 
• Always use the lowest rating among all components (hitch, ball mount, and ball) to determine the maximum safe towing capacity. 

How do I tell what size hitch I have?

To find your hitch size, measure the inside dimensions of the receiver tube opening on your vehicle to get the receiver size (e.g., 1-1/4", 2", 2-1/2", or 3"). You can also check the hitch ball itself and the trailer's coupler for stamped information like diameter, typically 1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16".
 
How to measure your receiver hitch
This video demonstrates how to measure your hitch receiver: 58sRHRSwagYouTube · Oct 22, 2021

1. Locate the receiver tube: This is the square opening on the back of your vehicle where the ball mount slides in. 
2. Measure the inside opening: Measure the inside width from edge to edge (either horizontally or vertically). Do not measure the outside. 
3. Note the size:
   • 1-1/4": Common for cars and small SUVs. 
   • 2": Found on most mid- and full-size SUVs and half-ton trucks. 
   • 2-1/2": Common on newer 3/4-ton and 1-ton trucks. 
   • 3": Found on some heavy-duty trucks. 

How to identify hitch ball and coupler size
This video explains how to find your hitch's ratings: 0:48U-HaulYouTube · Nov 19, 2024

1. Look for a stamp: Check the top or side of the trailer's coupler (the part that clamps onto the hitch ball) for a stamped number, often indicating the required ball diameter. 
2. Measure the ball: If there is no stamp, use a tape measure or calipers to measure the widest part of the ball itself. 
3. Match the ball size: The most common sizes are 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". 

Why this is important

• Knowing your hitch and ball sizes is crucial for matching them correctly to ensure a secure connection and proper towing performance. 
• Using the wrong size can lead to a loose connection, excessive wear, or even failure while towing. 
• Different hitch classes (which correspond to different weight capacities) also have specific receiver tube sizes. 

Can my VIN number tell me my towing capacity?

Yes, you can look up towing capacity by VIN, but it's best to use online tools from the manufacturer or find the VIN plate on the vehicle itself. The VIN provides the most accurate, factory-set ratings, which are crucial for safe towing, but don't account for any modifications made to the vehicle.
 
How to use the VIN to find towing capacity

• Check the VIN plate: Look for a sticker on the driver's side door pillar, under the hood, or on the dashboard. It will list important weight ratings like Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCVWR). 
• Use a VIN decoder: Online tools from manufacturers like Ford, Mopar, and others can provide vehicle specs, including towing capacity, when you enter the VIN. 
• Calculate using the VIN plate data: If the VIN plate doesn't list the combined weight, you can calculate it yourself. Find the difference between the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR) and the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The result is the maximum trailer weight your vehicle can tow. 

Important considerations

• Vehicle modifications: The VIN-based information is for the vehicle as it came from the factory. Aftermarket additions like larger tires or running boards will change the vehicle's weight and reduce its payload and towing capacity. 
• Payload vs. towing capacity: Be aware of your vehicle's payload capacity, which is the maximum weight your vehicle can carry. You may reach the payload limit before you hit the maximum towing capacity. 
• Check the trailer's weight: Remember to check the trailer's weight and its VIN sticker as well. The trailer's Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is the maximum weight it can carry.