Why is my 2016 Ford Explorer not blowing cold air?

In many cases, a 2016 Ford Explorer that isn’t blowing cold air comes down to a refrigerant undercharge from a leak, an AC compressor clutch problem, or an electrical fault that keeps the system from engaging. A stuck blend door or another HVAC control issue can also prevent cooling.

Understanding the symptom involves looking at both the refrigerant circuit and the climate-control system. If the compressor isn’t engaging, the system won’t compress refrigerant and you’ll get warm or room-temperature air. If the compressor runs but the air isn’t cold, the issue could be a leak, a failed condenser fan, or a blocked flow path through the evaporator or expansion device. This guide walks through the most common causes, how to diagnose them safely, and what to expect if you need a professional repair.

Common causes of no cold air

These are the issues most often behind a lack of cooling in the 2016 Explorer. They range from simple to more complex components.

• Low refrigerant due to a leak in hoses, fittings, or the condenser


• AC compressor clutch not engaging (electrical or mechanical failure)



• Faulty high-pressure or low-pressure switches preventing the compressor from cycling


• Condenser fan not operating or restricted airflow reducing cooling capacity


• Clogged cabin air filter or reduced airflow across the evaporator


• HVAC blend door or actuator stuck, directing air to non-cooling pathways


• Faulty expansion valve or orifice tube restricting refrigerant flow


• Evaporator core issues, such as a leak or internal blockage (less common)


• HVAC control module or software glitches affecting system engagement

Bottom line: most cases start with refrigerant issues or the compressor, but air distribution and control problems can also mimic a non-cooling result.

How to diagnose the issue at home

Before you begin, remember that refrigerant handling and some diagnostic steps can be hazardous or require certification in many places. If you’re unsure, seek professional help. The following checks help you pinpoint whether the problem is simple (airflow, fuses) or more involved (refrigerant or compressor).

• Verify the A/C is turned on and set to MAX/Cold with the fan on a high setting and the air recirculated to maximize cooling.


• Listen for the AC compressor clutch engaging when you turn on cooling. A click or a visible clutch engagement means the clutch is receiving power and attempting to compress refrigerant; no engagement often points to electrical issues or a depleted refrigerant charge.


• Check under the hood for obvious refrigerant leaks or oily residue around fittings, hoses, and the condenser. A leak is the most common cause of losing cooling performance.


• Inspect fuses and relays related to the A/C and HVAC systems. A blown fuse or a faulty relay can prevent the compressor from engaging or the blower from operating.


• Test the blower motor at all speeds. If there’s no airflow, the issue may be the blower resistor, blower motor, or a blockage in the cabin air path rather than the refrigerant.


• Check the condenser fan operation. With the engine running and A/C on, the radiator/condenser fan(s) should spin. If they don’t, cooling capacity drops and the system may not reach cold air.


• Inspect the cabin air filter. A severely clogged filter can reduce airflow enough to make cooling feel ineffective, even if the refrigerant is fine.


• If you have access to diagnostic tools, consider checking for HVAC-related fault codes in the vehicle’s onboard computer. Codes can indicate blend-door issues, sensor faults, or control-module problems.


• For a more definitive assessment, have refrigerant pressures measured with a manifold gauge set. Low pressure with the compressor engaged suggests undercharge or a leak; unusually high pressures can indicate an overcharge or a blocked/ restricted flow path.

Note: If you discover a leak or suspect the refrigerant is low, don’t simply recharge it without repairing the leak. A prolonged recharge without fixing the leak will lead to repeated failures and environmental harm.

What a mechanic will check

When you bring your Explorer to a shop, technicians perform a systematic evaluation of the cooling system, electrical circuits, and HVAC controls.

• Leak detection and refrigerant charge verification on both the low and high sides


• Function of the AC compressor and clutch engagement


• Electrical system checks: fuses, relays, wiring to the compressor, and HVAC control module


• Condenser fan operation and cooling airflow across the condenser


• Expansion device (expansion valve or orifice tube) and evaporator performance


• Cabin HVAC blend doors and actuators to ensure correct temperature routing to vents


• System code reading for HVAC modules to identify software or sensor faults


• Component replacement as needed (compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier, hoses, or actuators)

Professional diagnosis helps determine whether the issue is a simple refrigerant recharge, a minor sensor or actuator fault, or a major component replacement. Some repairs require specialized tools and refrigerant handling certification.

Typical costs and timeline

Costs vary by region, vehicle condition, and whether a leak is present. The following ranges reflect common U.S. prices for 2016 Ford Explorers as of recent years. Always get a written estimate before work begins.

• AC refrigerant recharge (plus dye to locate leaks, if needed): approximately $100–$300


• Leak repair and recharge: $150–$1,000+, depending on location and extent of the leak


• AC compressor replacement: roughly $800–$1,500 in parts and labor


• Condenser replacement: about $400–$1,000


• Evaporator replacement: typically $600–$1,800


• Blower motor or blend door actuator: approximately $150–$600


• HVAC control module/software repair: varies widely, often $150–$600 for diagnostics plus possible module replacement

Labor times can range from a couple of hours for simple fixes to a full day for evaporator or blend-door repairs. If a leak is found, the system often requires repair before recharging, which adds to both cost and time.

Summary

A 2016 Ford Explorer not blowing cold air is most often caused by a refrigerant undercharge from a leak, a failing AC compressor clutch, or an electrical fault that prevents the compressor from engaging. Other frequent causes include a blocked or faulty condenser fan, a clogged cabin filter, or a malfunctioning blend door. Start with a basic check of the A/C switch, compressor engagement, fuses, and airflow, then move to refrigerant pressure checks if you have the tools and training. If in doubt, consult a qualified technician to avoid improper charges or unsafe refrigerant handling. Regular maintenance and promptly addressing leaks can prevent recurring failures and keep your Explorer cooling reliably.

How to reset Ford climate control?

To reset a Ford climate control system, you can use a button combination like holding the A/C and Recirc buttons for some models, or you can disconnect the negative battery terminal for 5-15 minutes for a more thorough reset. For specific models, a different combination like holding Auto, Off, and Defrost while in accessory mode can trigger a self-test and recalibration. 
Method 1: Button combination reset (for specific models)

• On certain Ford models (like some Edge and F-150s): Turn the ignition to the "accessory" position (without starting the engine). Press and hold the A/C and Recirculation buttons simultaneously for about 10 seconds until the system cycles, or until you see an 88° display flash, then press the Auto button to complete the reset. 
• On other models (like Fusion): With the ignition in the "ON" position without starting the engine, press and hold the AC and Recirc buttons at the same time for about 10 seconds. 
• On some Fusion models: Turn the ignition off, then press the climate power button and the windshield defroster button simultaneously, and immediately press the climate power button again. 

Method 2: Battery disconnection reset 

• Turn off the vehicle and remove the keys. 
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a wrench and let it sit for at least 5 to 15 minutes to allow all residual power to drain. 
• While the battery is disconnected, turn on the headlights for a few seconds to drain any remaining power from the system. 
• Reconnect the negative battery cable securely. 
• Start the car and let it run for 2 to 3 minutes, switching through the different vent modes (floor, dash, defrost) to help the system relearn the correct airflow positions. You may hear a clicking or whirring sound as the blend doors recalibrate. 

Method 3: HVAC fuse reset 

• Turn off the vehicle's ignition completely.
• Locate the HVAC or climate control fuse in the fuse box (check your owner's manual for the exact location and number, as it varies by model).
• Remove the fuse using a fuse puller or needle-nose pliers.
• Wait for 1 to 2 minutes.
• Reinsert the fuse securely.
• Start the vehicle and check if the climate control is working correctly. 

Why is my Ford Explorer AC not getting cold?

If your Ford Explorer's AC isn't blowing cold, it could be due to low refrigerant, a dirty cabin air filter, a malfunctioning compressor, or electrical issues like a blown fuse or bad relay. First, check the cabin air filter for blockages and clean or replace it if needed. Then, check if the compressor clutch is engaging and listen for any unusual noises. If those steps don't fix the problem, a more complex issue like a refrigerant leak or an electrical fault will likely require professional diagnosis. 
This video explains how to diagnose and fix common Ford Explorer AC issues, including the blender actuator: 58sFree Car RepairYouTube · Nov 4, 2024
Common causes and solutions

• Low refrigerant: Low refrigerant is a very common cause of poor cooling. 
  • Solution: A professional can diagnose if there is a leak and recharge the system. 
• Dirty cabin air filter: A clogged filter restricts airflow, which can reduce cooling performance. 
  • Solution: Check the cabin air filter and replace it if it is dirty. 
• Faulty compressor: The compressor is a key component of the AC system. If it fails, the system won't produce cold air. 
  • Solution: Have a mechanic check the compressor for proper engagement and overall health. 
• Dirty condenser coils: The condenser, located at the front of the vehicle, can get blocked by debris, reducing its ability to release heat. 
  • Solution: Inspect the condenser and clean it if it appears dirty or blocked. 
• Electrical problems: Issues with fuses, relays, or the AC control module can prevent the compressor from engaging or the system from working correctly. 
  • Solution: Check the fuses and relays related to the AC system. If those are fine, it could be a more complex electrical issue requiring a technician. 

You can watch this video to learn where to find the AC compressor fuse and relay in a Ford Explorer: 56sQuiteAlrightYouTube · Apr 5, 2023
Next steps
If basic troubleshooting doesn't solve the issue, it is best to have a mechanic inspect the system. They can properly diagnose and fix problems like leaks, compressor failure, or complex electrical issues.

Why would my AC be running but not cooling?

An AC that runs but doesn't cool is often caused by simple issues like a dirty air filter or incorrect thermostat settings, but can also be a sign of more serious problems like a refrigerant leak, a faulty compressor, or frozen evaporator coils. You can check the thermostat and air filter yourself, but you should call a professional for internal issues like a refrigerant leak or compressor problems.
 
Quick checks you can do

• Check the thermostat: Make sure it's set to "Cool" and the temperature is set lower than the current room temperature. Set the fan to "Auto" instead of "On". 
• Replace the air filter: A clogged filter is a very common cause. Check if it's dirty and replace it if needed. This can also cause the evaporator coils to freeze. 
• Clear vents and registers: Make sure air vents in your home are not blocked by furniture or other objects. 

Potential causes requiring a professional

• Low refrigerant: This is often due to a leak. The AC won't cool properly without enough refrigerant. 
• Frozen evaporator coils: This is often a symptom of poor airflow (like a dirty filter) or low refrigerant. You may need to turn the AC off to let them thaw. 
• Dirty condenser coils: These are on the outdoor unit. If they are dirty, the AC can't release heat properly, making it inefficient. 
• Faulty compressor or capacitor: The compressor is the heart of the system. A bad capacitor can prevent the fan and compressor from starting. 
• Leaky ductwork: Leaky ducts can cause cool air to escape before it reaches the rooms that need it. 

What to do now

1. Start with the simple checks: thermostat and air filter. 
2. If those don't solve the problem, turn the AC system off to prevent further damage, especially if you suspect frozen coils. 
3. If the issue persists, contact an HVAC professional to diagnose and fix more complex problems like refrigerant leaks or compressor issues. 

Why is my AC not cooling in my 2016 Ford Explorer?

Intermittent front AC in the 2016 Explorer can stem from a faulty AC relay or loose wiring connections. The compressor running with no consistent airflow suggests blower motor or resistor problems. Inspect the front AC relay located in the fuse box and test the blower motor resistor for continuity.