Why has my electric window stopped working?

The most common reasons a power window stops working are a blown fuse, a faulty window switch, or a failed window motor or regulator. Start with the simplest checks to avoid unnecessary repairs.

Electric windows in modern cars are powered by a small DC motor linked to a regulator that lifts or lowers the glass. When the system fails, a handful of components could be at fault. This article outlines the typical causes, how to test them safely, and when to call a professional.

Common failure modes

These are the issues auto technicians most often encounter when diagnosing a non-working power window.

• Blown fuse or faulty relay in the window circuit.


• Defective window switch (door panel switch or master switch) not supplying power correctly.


• Failed window motor, which may buzz or stall but not move the glass.


• Damaged or worn window regulator or track, causing the glass to bind or slip off track.


• Damaged wiring or corroded connectors in the door harness, often due to door-opening friction or moisture.


• Moisture intrusion or water damage inside the door can corrode components or short circuits.


• Anti-pinch/safety feature inhibiting movement if the system detects resistance or a fault in sensors.


• Power supply issues affecting all windows, such as a bad main fuse, ignition circuit, or battery problem.

Addressing these causes usually starts with checking fuses and switches, then testing the motor and regulator. If the problem persists or involves tricky disassembly, a professional repair may be required.

Diagnostic steps you can perform

Follow these steps in order to isolate the fault. Always observe safety precautions when working on a vehicle's electrical system.

1. Check the fuse box: locate the power window fuse/relay using your owner's manual or a fuse diagram, and inspect the fuse for signs of a blown filament or a discolored link. Replace with the correct amperage rating if blown; do not exceed rating.


2. Test the window switch(s): try raising and lowering the window using both the door switch and the master switch. If one works and the other doesn't, the issue is likely the switch or its wiring.


3. Listen for the motor: press the switch and listen for a whirring or clicking from inside the door. A buzzing sound often indicates a motor trying to run but stalled (regulator/jam).


4. Inspect the window for obstruction or misalignment: carefully check that the glass isn't off its tracks or caught by the weatherstripping; if it’s stuck, do not force it, as this can damage the regulator.


5. Check for voltage at the switch and at the motor: if you have a multimeter and the necessary wires, verify there is supply when the switch is pressed and that the motor receives voltage. No voltage means a wiring, switch, or fuse fault; voltage but no motion points to motor/regulator issues.


6. Examine the door harness: door wiring can be damaged over time by opening/closing the door. Look for frayed insulation, loose connectors, or pinched wires near the door jamb.


7. Assess for moisture or corrosion: if the door is damp, open the window area to dry and inspect for corrosion on connectors; cleaning and protecting connectors can improve reliability.


8. Consider the possibility of a faulty anti-pinch sensor or body control module in modern vehicles: if multiple windows are affected or the car’s electrical system behaves erratically, a dealer-level diagnostic may be necessary.

These steps help you pinpoint whether the fault is mechanical (motor or regulator), electrical (fuse/switch/wiring), or a control issue. Simple fixes like replacing a blown fuse or a faulty switch are often doable at home; deeper problems typically require door-panel removal and professional service.

When to seek professional help

If the window still does not move after performing the above checks, or you notice signs such as burnt wiring, melted insulation, or a persistent burning smell, stop and arrange service with a qualified auto technician or dealer. They can safely diagnose using professional test equipment and replace components as needed.

Model-specific notes

One-window problems vs all-windows problems

A single-window failure is typically a fuse, switch, motor, regulator, or wiring issue in that door. If all windows fail or only the driver’s window is non-functional in the same way, the problem is more likely with the main power supply, ignition-switched circuit, or body control module.

Front vs. rear windows

Some cars use different fuses or wiring for rear doors; check the fuse diagram accordingly. In vehicles with separate door modules, issues may be isolated to one door’s circuitry even when others are functioning.

Summary

Power windows fail most often due to a blown fuse, faulty switch, or failed motor/regulator. Start with simple checks (fuse and switch), then test the motor and regulator, and seek professional help for complex or persistent issues. Regular maintenance and careful inspection can keep your electric windows functioning smoothly.

How do I fix my electric window not working?

First, test the driver's window switch for power output using a multimeter. If power is present, the window motor may be seized or the regulator cables could be jammed or broken. Remove the door panel to inspect the motor and regulator assembly. Lubricate moving parts and replace any damaged components.

Does each power window have its own fuse?

No, most vehicles do not have a separate fuse for each power window; instead, a single fuse or circuit breaker typically protects the entire power window system. If one window is not working while the others function correctly, the problem is more likely a faulty switch, motor, or wiring issue specific to that door, rather than a blown fuse. However, some newer vehicles may use individual fuses for each window. 
Common scenarios

• All windows stop working: If multiple windows fail at once, a blown main fuse is a very likely cause. 
• Only one window stops working: If only a single window is affected, the fuse is probably fine. The problem is most likely a failed switch, motor, or a broken wire in the door hinge area. 

What to do if a window isn't working
This video demonstrates how to check a car's fuse and identify a blown fuse: 56sCody the Car GuyYouTube · Jul 19, 2013

1. Consult your owner's manual: This is the best way to find out which fuse(s) control the power windows and where they are located. 
2. Check the main fuse: If all windows have stopped working, locate the power window fuse and check if it is blown. If it is, replace it with a new one of the same amperage. 
3. Investigate if only one window is affected: 
   • Listen for the motor when you press the switch to see if you can hear any noise. 
   • If the motor is silent, the issue is likely the switch, motor, or wiring. A good next step is to inspect the wiring harness that runs from the car body into the door, as wires can break from repeated opening and closing. 
4. Look for a reset procedure: Some cars have a reset procedure you can try, especially after a power interruption. This often involves holding the window switch in the "up" or "down" position for several seconds after the window reaches its end of travel. 

How to tell if it's the window motor or switch?

To tell if a window switch or motor is bad, first check the switch's physical condition and listen for the motor when you press the switch. If you hear the motor running but the window doesn't move, the motor is likely bad. If you hear grinding or clicking noises, or if the window moves very slowly, it is often the motor or regulator. If only one window is affected and all other windows work, the issue is likely with that specific switch, motor, or regulator.
 
How to diagnose a bad switch 
This video demonstrates how to diagnose a bad window switch or motor by checking for power flow to the motor: 54sRockAuto Auto PartsYouTube · Apr 18, 2019

• Physical feel: A spongy, loose, or otherwise different feeling in the switch compared to the others can indicate a problem. 
• Master switch issues: If the other windows only work from the master switch, but not from their own door switches, the individual switches may be faulty. 
• Lack of power: If you press the switch and observe that your car's interior lights or dashboard indicators do not dim at all, it could mean the switch is not sending power to the motor. 
• The window moves: If you can confirm the window moves when using a different switch (like the master switch), the original window's switch is the likely culprit. 

How to diagnose a bad motor or regulator 
This video shows how to test if a window motor is working by bypassing the switch: 1mTop 5 Auto RepairsYouTube · Jun 6, 2023

• Motor noise: A grinding, clicking, or squealing noise coming from the door when you press the switch often indicates a problem with the motor or the window regulator, which is the mechanical part that lifts the glass. 
• Motor sound but no movement: If you hear the motor running (a humming sound) but the window doesn't move at all, the motor is likely bad. 
• Slow or jerky movement: A window that moves very slowly, jerks, or gets stuck halfway is often a sign of a struggling motor or a faulty regulator. 
• Burning smell: A burning smell coming from the door panel can indicate the motor is overheating and is on its way to failing. 

What to check first
You can watch this video to learn how to test a power window circuit: 58sJustin MillerYouTube · Mar 13, 2015

• Check the fuse: Before replacing any parts, it's a good idea to check the fuse for the power windows to make sure it hasn't blown. 
• Test all switches: Press the switch for the problem window and then test all other window switches. If other windows work correctly, the problem is isolated to that one window's switch, motor, or regulator. 

What is the most common issue with power windows?

One of the most frequent causes of power window issues is a faulty switch. Over time, the switch can wear out, leading to unresponsiveness or intermittent problems. Sometimes, the switch might feel loose or fail to “click” properly, indicating it's time for a replacement.