Are there struts in the rear?

Yes — some cars use rear MacPherson struts, but many do not. The rear suspension can also be independent multi-link, a torsion-beam design, trailing arms, or a solid axle with leaf springs, depending on the model, cost, and engineering goals.

The term strut in a suspension context usually refers to a combined shock absorber and spring that can also serve as a structural member. In front suspensions, struts are common; in the rear, manufacturers choose from several layouts based on ride quality, packaging, and manufacturing costs. The presence of rear struts is not universal and varies by vehicle class and design philosophy.

Rear suspension configurations

Below is an overview of the main rear suspension layouts you may encounter, including which ones use struts.

• Rear MacPherson strut: A single strut assembly that acts as both spring and shock absorber, mounted to the wheel knuckle. It is simple and space-efficient and is used on some compact and mid-size cars on the rear axle.


• Independent multi-link suspension: Uses several arms with separate dampers (and often coil springs). This layout can provide improved ride and handling at the cost of greater complexity and space requirements.


• Torsion beam (torsion-bar) rear suspension: A simpler, cost-effective setup where a torsion beam carries the wheels via trailing arms. It often uses coil springs and dampers integrated with the beam and is common on smaller, economical cars.


• Trailing-arm or double-wishbone independent rear: A more sophisticated independent design with fixed arms (trailing arms or a pair of wishbones) and separate dampers and springs. Some variants may incorporate struts as part of the dampers, but many use separate shock absorbers.


• Solid axle with leaf springs (found in many pickups, some SUVs): Not a strut-based setup. A solid axle carries the wheels and uses leaf springs with dampers, prioritizing durability and load capacity over the independent-suspension ride.

In practice, whether the rear uses struts depends on the design goals: ride comfort, handling, packaging space, and manufacturing cost. If you’re curious about a specific model, check the vehicle’s service manual or parts diagrams to confirm the exact rear suspension layout.

How to tell if your car has rear struts

Visual indicators can help: a rear MacPherson strut appears as a single vertical spring-and-shock assembly connected to the wheel hub; an independent multi-link rear shows multiple control arms with separate dampers; a torsion-beam setup typically displays a beam spanning the rear axle with wheels mounted on arms and dampers mounted separately. For certainty, refer to manufacturer documentation or a repair manual for your vehicle’s exact suspension design.

Summary

Rear struts are not universal. Some vehicles use rear MacPherson struts, but many rely on other independent layouts (multi-link, trailing arms), torsion-beam designs, or even solid axles. The choice shapes ride, handling, and cost, so checking a specific model’s specifications is the most reliable way to know what kind of rear suspension it uses.

Are there struts in the rear of a car?

Every wheel on your vehicle has either a shock or strut. However, your vehicle could have shocks on the front and struts on the back or some other configuration. The key takeaway is that each wheel has some sort of ride control part.

Is there a difference between front and rear struts?

Front and rear struts differ in their design and function, with front struts often being integrated with the steering system and tuned for control, while rear struts may be designed more for carrying varying loads and ride comfort. The front suspension handles steering forces, so front struts may be more compact to accommodate the engine and steering components. Rear struts often deal with more variable weight, from an empty trunk to a fully loaded vehicle, and some designs include features like adjustable damping to cope with this.
 
This video explains the difference between front and rear shocks: 1mAuto V Fix YouTube · Oct 22, 2022
Front struts

• Function: Support steering and a greater portion of the vehicle's handling and stability during cornering. 
• Design: Can be more compact due to space constraints in the engine bay, steering linkage, and the need to work with the suspension geometry. 
• Wear: Typically experience more wear due to the combined forces of steering and braking, potentially wearing out faster than rear components. 
• Symptoms of failure: Severe nose-diving under hard braking. 

Rear struts

• Function: Primarily focused on ride comfort and maintaining traction at the rear wheels, especially under heavy loads. 
• Design: Often designed to handle varying loads, which is why many have features like adjustable or load-sensitive damping. 
• Wear: Can last longer than front struts if the vehicle is not consistently carrying heavy loads, but can fail prematurely if subjected to constant weight or stress. 
• Symptoms of failure: Significant squatting during hard acceleration. 

You can watch this video to learn how to tell if your struts are going bad: 37sCountermanYouTube · Sep 13, 2022

How much does it cost to replace rear struts?

Replacing rear struts costs approximately $220 to $580 per strut for parts and labor, though a full pair can range from $450 to $900 depending on the vehicle and parts. The final price depends on the vehicle's make and model, the cost of parts (OEM vs. aftermarket), and the labor rate, with some luxury vehicles costing significantly more. 
You can watch this video to learn more about the average cost of strut replacement: 56sStudent LessonYouTube · Jun 7, 2024
Cost breakdown

• Parts: The cost of the parts can vary widely. A pair of shocks might cost $80-$250, while a full strut assembly (which includes the coil spring and top mount) can cost $300-$760 for a pair.
• Labor: Labor costs can be anywhere from $100-$300 per pair, but this can increase depending on the complexity of the job and if a full strut assembly is used.
• Additional costs: An alignment is recommended or required after replacing struts, which can add an extra $40-$80 to the total cost. 

Factors that influence cost

• Vehicle type: The make and model of your car are major factors. Luxury or off-road vehicles will generally have higher costs for parts and labor compared to mainstream vehicles. 
• Part quality: The final price depends on whether you use OEM (original equipment manufacturer) or aftermarket parts. Dealerships using OEM parts may charge up to 50% more. 
• Labor rates: Labor costs vary by location and service center. A local shop will likely be cheaper than a dealership. 

DIY vs. professional installation

• DIY: If you have experience, replacing the struts yourself can save you significant labor costs, as many strut assemblies are "bolt-on" parts. However, this requires proper tools and knowledge, and you will still need to account for the cost of parts and the mandatory alignment.
• Professional: Hiring a professional ensures the job is done correctly and safely, especially if you are not confident in your mechanical abilities. This is highly recommended for those without DIY experience. 

How can you tell if a rear strut is bad?

Symptoms of bad rear struts include excessive bouncing, a saggy or "squatting" rear end during acceleration, uneven tire wear, fluid leaks from the strut, and unusual noises like clunking or knocking. Other indicators are reduced vehicle control, increased stopping distance, and poor handling during turns.
 
Driving and handling issues

• Excessive bouncing: The vehicle continues to bounce after hitting a bump instead of settling down. 
• Rear squat: The rear of the car sags or "squats" toward the ground during acceleration. 
• Poor handling: The vehicle sways or rolls more than usual when cornering. 
• Longer stopping distance: It takes longer to come to a complete stop. 
• Unstable ride: The car feels unstable or "floppy" at highway speeds. 
• Nose-diving: The front of the car dips excessively when braking. 

Visual and auditory signs 

• Leaking fluid: Oily or greasy residue on the exterior of the strut is a strong indicator of a leak. 
• Uneven tire wear: Tires may show cupping or a wavy pattern due to excessive bouncing. 
• Unusual noises: Listen for clunking, knocking, or squeaking sounds, especially when going over bumps or during turns. 
• Visible damage: Check for cracks or damage on the rubber boots or mounts of the struts. 

Other signs

• Vibrations: A slight vibration in the steering wheel could be a sign of a worn-out suspension component. 
• Headlight aim: The up-and-down motion of the car can cause headlights to shine erratically, potentially blinding oncoming drivers.