Can you change brake drums yourself?
You can typically perform drum-brake work at home, including inspecting, resurfacing, or replacing drums and shoes, if you have the right tools, a solid manual for your vehicle, and a careful approach to safety. On some newer cars with ABS or complex hub assemblies, or where drums are difficult to access, professional service may be wiser.
What you should know before starting
Before you dive in, understand that drum brakes are a safety-critical system. The job can be straightforward on older or simpler systems, but it can be tricky on modern vehicles. The sections below cover the key considerations, tools, and steps so you can decide whether to DIY and how to proceed safely.
Vehicle types and brake layouts
Most older and economy cars use rear drum brakes, sometimes paired with disc brakes on the front. Some vehicles still rely entirely on drums for the rear axle, while others include ABS or sensors integrated with the drum assemblies. Always verify your car’s brake layout and consult the repair manual for model-specific procedures and specifications before starting.
Safety and legal considerations
Brake work is safety-critical. Secure the vehicle on level ground with the parking brake disengaged, wheels chocked, and the car supported on sturdy jack stands. Wear eye protection and gloves, and work in a well-ventilated area. Brake dust can be hazardous, and residues from older drums may contain harmful materials; avoid inhaling dust and use brake cleaner in a well-ventilated space. If anything looks seized, damaged, or questionable, pause and seek professional help.
Tools and preparation
Having the right tools and a plan helps prevent damage to parts or your vehicle. Below is a baseline toolkit and setup you’ll typically need for a drum-brake service.
Tools and safety you’ll typically need:
- Jack, jack stands, and wheel chocks
- Lug wrench or tire iron
- Brake drum puller or rubber mallet for drum removal
- Brake spring tool set for removing and installing springs
- Brake shoe kit (if shoes are worn) including return springs and hold-down hardware
- Drum thickness gauge or micrometer to verify wear limits
- Calipers or outside micrometer for precise measurements
- Brake cleaner, rags, and gloves; mask for dust when needed
- Torque wrench for lug nuts and any hub fasteners
- Penetrating oil for rusted fasteners
- Replacement drums or wheel cylinders as required by wear or leaks
Having the right tools and following safety precautions will help you complete the job more reliably and safely.
DIY steps: how to replace drum brakes
A typical drum-brake service follows a logical sequence. The exact steps can vary by vehicle, so refer to your shop manual for model-specific instructions and any special cautions related to ABS, hub assemblies, or drum removal.
- Prepare the vehicle: park on a level surface, engage the parking brake lightly, place wheel chocks on the opposite wheels, and loosen the lug nuts before lifting.
- Lift the car and support it on jack stands, then remove the wheel to expose the brake drum.
- Inspect the drum: try to spin it by hand with light resistance; if it is seized or out of round, you may need to replace the drum or have it resurfaced per manufacturer specs.
- Remove the brake drum: if the drum is held by a set screw or rusted hub, use the appropriate driver or penetrating oil and a rubber mallet to free it. Do not strike the braking surface.
- Inspect internal components: look at the shoes, lining wear, springs, and the wheel cylinder for leaks. If the shoes are worn beyond spec or if the wheel cylinder leaks, replace those parts as needed.
- Disassemble the brake shoes and hardware: remove springs, retainers, and all shoes; keep track of the orientation of each component to ensure correct reassembly.
- Install new shoes and hardware (if replacing): place the new shoes, reinstall springs and retainers using the brake spring tool, and ensure correct alignment and clearance.
- Reassemble and reinstall the drum: re-check that the drum fits over the shoes and rotates with only a light drag. Reinstall the wheel and torqued lug nuts to the manufacturer spec.
- Adjust and bed-in: adjust the star wheel or automatic adjuster to obtain a slight drag when rotating the drum by hand, then replace the wheel and lower the vehicle. Pump the brake pedal to seat the shoes against the drums and perform a cautious test drive to bed in the new shoes.
If any step is unclear or you encounter a leak, stuck components, or unusual noises, stop and reassess. When in doubt, consult a professional to prevent compromised braking performance.
When to seek professional help
Choose professional service if you encounter one or more of the following: the drum remains stubborn after reasonable freeing attempts, the drum is deeply grooved or out-of-round beyond spec, the wheel cylinder leaks, you need to replace or modify ABS-related components, or you’re not confident in performing precise measurements and bedding-in procedures. A brake job can be safest when performed by someone with the right tools and experience, especially on newer vehicles or those with complex brake hardware.
Summary
DIY brake-drum work is feasible for many cars, particularly older or simpler rear-drum setups, but it requires the right tools, careful handling of parts, and strict safety practices. Always verify the correct procedure for your model, measure wear to manufacturer specs, and ensure proper adjustments and bedding-in. If you’re unsure at any point, seek professional assistance to maintain optimal braking performance and road safety.
What is the 30/30/30 rule for brakes?
The 30/30/30 rule for brakes is a method for properly "bedding-in" new brake pads and rotors, which involves making 30 gradual stops from 30 mph, with a 30-second cooling period between each stop. This process helps create an even transfer layer of brake pad material onto the rotor surface, ensuring optimal performance and preventing issues like brake fade and glazed pads.
How to perform the 30/30/30 rule
- Find a safe area: Locate an open, lightly trafficked road or a large, empty parking lot.
- Warm up the brakes: Drive for a few minutes to bring the brakes up to a normal operating temperature.
- Start the procedure: Accelerate smoothly to about 30 mph.
- Make the first stop: Apply moderate, firm pressure to slow the vehicle down to about 5-10 mph, but do not come to a complete stop. Avoid hard or emergency stops.
- Cool down: Release the brake and allow the brakes to cool for 30 seconds.
- Repeat: Repeat the process of stopping and cooling for a total of 30 times.
- Complete the break-in: After the 30 stops, drive for about 300 to 500 miles while avoiding hard or aggressive braking to allow the new components to fully settle in.
Can I change my own drum brakes?
To replace drum brakes, take safety precautions, remove and inspect the brake drum, disassemble the brake drum and remove the brake shoes, remove the parking brake cable retainer clip, clean and reinstall the brake shoes and components, install the new brake drum, and install the wheel and tire.
What is the average cost of replacing brake drums?
between $275 and $399
The average brake drum replacement cost averages between $275 and $399 depending on the type of the vehicle you have the type of repair shop you're taking your vehicle to.
Are brake drums hard to replace?
Replacing drum brakes is more difficult than disc brakes due to their intricate components and strong springs, but it is manageable with the right tools and a careful approach. The process can be time-consuming, and the drum itself can be difficult to remove due to rust. Key steps involve carefully disassembling the many springs and levers, and properly adjusting the new shoes.
Tools and preparation
- Tools: A drum brake tool kit is highly recommended and often includes brake spring pliers, a brake spring retainer tool, and a brake adjuster spoon. You'll also need a jack, lug wrench, and safety glasses.
- Documentation: Before disassembling anything, take photos of the existing setup to help with reassembly.
- Rust prevention: If the drum is stuck, penetrating oil and a hammer can help free it, but a specialized drum puller is often the best option.
This video demonstrates the process of changing drum brakes, including removing the wheel cylinder and adjusting the brakes: 1mClassic Car MaintenanceYouTube · May 23, 2025
Disassembly and replacement
- Loosen the drum: With the vehicle still on the ground, loosen the lug nuts. Once the vehicle is lifted, remove the tire and spray the hub with penetrating oil. Wiggle the drum or tap it with a hammer to break the rust seal.
- Remove the drum: You may need to use a hammer or a pry bar to get the drum off. If it's still stuck, it's best to use a drum puller.
- Disassemble the components: Use the photos you took as a guide to carefully remove the old brake shoes, springs, and the adjuster assembly. It's a good idea to leave one side connected to the springs at first to help hold the others in place.
- Install new components: Install the new brake shoes, ensuring any components like the parking brake lever are transferred from the old shoes to the new ones. Clean and lubricate the backing plate where the shoes will make contact.
- Adjust the shoes: Adjust the new shoes using the adjuster spoon until they are almost touching the drum, but not quite. This will allow the drum to fit back on.
This video explains how to remove the springs and adjust the brake shoes: 59sTRQYouTube · Jul 1, 2019
Finishing up
- Re-install the drum: With the shoes adjusted correctly, slide the new or resurfaced drum back into place.
- Adjust for braking: Adjust the star wheel again until the drum can still spin with a slight drag. Do not overtighten.
- Finish the job: Lower the vehicle, tighten the lug nuts, and re-install the wheel.
- Bleed the lines: If you had to disconnect any brake lines, bleed the brake system to remove any air.
- Test drive: Take the vehicle for a test drive to ensure the brakes are working properly.
