What would cause my power windows to stop working?

Power windows stop working most often because of a blown fuse, a failed window motor or regulator, or a faulty switch or wiring. Sometimes a door lock or master switch setting or an obstruction can also stop them.

Across thousands of cars and years, the root causes tend to fall into a few broad categories: electrical supply failures, mechanical wear, and user-enabled conditions like a lock switch. This article explains the likely culprits, how to diagnose them safely, and when to seek professional help.

Electrical supply failures

Power windows rely on a steady electrical feed from the vehicle’s 12-volt system. When that feed is interrupted or degraded, windows may refuse to move. Here are the electrical culprits that show up most often.

• Blown fuse for the power-window circuit


• Faulty relay or failed window switch (driver’s master switch or individual window switch)


• Damaged wiring or a worn door harness in the door, especially near the hinge where wires flex


• A weak or failing battery/alternator that fails to supply consistent voltage


• Window lock or child-lock feature engaged, disabling operation from some switches


• Grounding problems or poor electrical connections in the switch or motor circuit

Conclusion: If there’s no power reaching the switch or motor, the fault is likely in the electrical supply side. If power is present but the window doesn’t move, the problem is more likely with the motor, regulator, or switch.

Specific diagnostic steps for electrical faults

Use these steps to isolate electrical causes without tearing apart the door:

• Locate the interior fuse box and check the fuse labeled for the power windows; replace if blown with one of the same rating


• Test for voltage at the window switch and at the motor using a multimeter or a test light


• If voltage is present at the switch but not at the motor, the issue is likely wiring or a bad door connector


• If voltage is present at the motor but the motor doesn’t run, the motor or regulator may be seized or worn


• Check for a tripped relay; listen for a faint click when you press the switch

In many vehicles, a quick scan with an OBD-style tool may reveal related fault codes from the body control module (BCM) or door control unit, which can guide repairs.

Mechanical and physical causes

Even with electrical power, mechanical components can fail or become obstructed, preventing window movement or causing erratic behavior.

• Worn or seized window regulator or motor


• Obstruction in the window track or a misaligned glass that binds the mechanism


• Damaged or stretched regulator cables or gears


• Corrosion, rust, or moisture intrusion into the door’s operating components


• Debris or grime in the track or improper lubrication of the guides

Conclusion: If you hear grinding, see the window move slowly, or feel binding as you operate the switch, the issue is likely mechanical rather than purely electrical.

Diagnosing mechanical issues

These checks help determine if a mechanical failure is the cause:

• Inspect the door panel for obvious damage or loose connectors; remove the panel only if you’re comfortable and follow safety precautions


• Manually move the glass slightly while pressing the switch to see if the motor attempts to run but stalls


• Listen for unusual sounds (groaning, grinding) when the switch is activated


• Check the window track for obstructions, misalignment, or damaged rollers

Conclusion: Mechanical failures often require the replacement of the regulator and/or motor, and sometimes the window track or glass alignment must be corrected.

Intermittent operation and advanced systems

Some failures show up only intermittently or in vehicles with newer electronics and safety features. These cases can require more specialized diagnostics.

• Anti-pinch or safety sensors that stop window movement if resistance is detected


• Faulty door control module or body control module (BCM) affecting multiple windows


• Water or corrosion affecting door connectors, which can cause intermittent contact


• Poor grounding or a loose electrical connection that reappears with vibration

Conclusion: Intermittent problems often necessitate a dealer-grade diagnostic scan to read fault codes from the vehicle’s computer systems and inspect the door modules.

DIY diagnostic steps and safety precautions

For those who want to troubleshoot before visiting a shop, here are practical steps. Always ensure the vehicle is off and the battery is disconnected if you’re manipulating door wiring or removing panels. If you’re not confident, seek professional help, especially with models that include sensitive airbags or complex body electronics.

• Check fuses and relays first and swap with a known-good unit if available


• Verify the lock and master switches aren’t engaged and test each window individually


• Inspect the door wiring harness and connector for pins that look damaged or corroded and reseat the connector


• Test for voltage at the switch and the motor with a multimeter or light tester


• Look for signs of water intrusion or corrosion around the door’s electrical components

Conclusion: A structured, cautious approach can identify simple fixes (like a blown fuse or loose connector) and save time and money. If the problem persists, professional diagnostics are advised.

When to seek professional help

Call a mechanic or dealership if you cannot locate a simple electrical fault, if you notice melted insulation or burning smells, or if the car is under warranty and electrical components are covered. Modern vehicles with multiple modules may require specialized scan tools and door-module testing to pinpoint the root cause. A professional can also determine whether a repair affects other systems or safety features.

Costs and warranty considerations

Repair costs vary widely depending on the cause and the vehicle model. Replacing a power window motor or regulator typically costs more than replacing a fuse or switch, and labor can be a significant portion of the bill on certain models. If under warranty, motor and regulator repairs may be covered; aftermarket or dealer pricing varies by location. Always check for recalls or open campaigns that might address a known issue with your vehicle’s power windows.

Summary

Power windows stopping can stem from electrical supply problems, mechanical faults, or advanced control modules. Start with the basics: check fuses, relays, and switches; test for voltage at the switch and motor; inspect the door harness for damage; and listen for motor activity. If power is reaching the motor but the window won’t move, the regulator or motor may be at fault. If you hear grinding or notice binding, expect a mechanical repair. For intermittent symptoms or cars with modern electronics, a professional diagnostic session is often the most efficient path to a lasting fix. Regular maintenance and careful handling of door components can help prevent future window failures.

Does each power window have its own fuse?

No, most vehicles do not have a separate fuse for each power window; instead, a single fuse or circuit breaker typically protects the entire power window system. If one window is not working while the others function correctly, the problem is more likely a faulty switch, motor, or wiring issue specific to that door, rather than a blown fuse. However, some newer vehicles may use individual fuses for each window. 
Common scenarios

• All windows stop working: If multiple windows fail at once, a blown main fuse is a very likely cause. 
• Only one window stops working: If only a single window is affected, the fuse is probably fine. The problem is most likely a failed switch, motor, or a broken wire in the door hinge area. 

What to do if a window isn't working
This video demonstrates how to check a car's fuse and identify a blown fuse: 56sCody the Car GuyYouTube · Jul 19, 2013

1. Consult your owner's manual: This is the best way to find out which fuse(s) control the power windows and where they are located. 
2. Check the main fuse: If all windows have stopped working, locate the power window fuse and check if it is blown. If it is, replace it with a new one of the same amperage. 
3. Investigate if only one window is affected: 
   • Listen for the motor when you press the switch to see if you can hear any noise. 
   • If the motor is silent, the issue is likely the switch, motor, or wiring. A good next step is to inspect the wiring harness that runs from the car body into the door, as wires can break from repeated opening and closing. 
4. Look for a reset procedure: Some cars have a reset procedure you can try, especially after a power interruption. This often involves holding the window switch in the "up" or "down" position for several seconds after the window reaches its end of travel. 

What is the most common issue with power windows?

One of the most frequent causes of power window issues is a faulty switch. Over time, the switch can wear out, leading to unresponsiveness or intermittent problems. Sometimes, the switch might feel loose or fail to “click” properly, indicating it's time for a replacement.

How to tell if it's the window motor or switch?

To tell if a window switch or motor is bad, first check the switch's physical condition and listen for the motor when you press the switch. If you hear the motor running but the window doesn't move, the motor is likely bad. If you hear grinding or clicking noises, or if the window moves very slowly, it is often the motor or regulator. If only one window is affected and all other windows work, the issue is likely with that specific switch, motor, or regulator.
 
How to diagnose a bad switch 
This video demonstrates how to diagnose a bad window switch or motor by checking for power flow to the motor: 54sRockAuto Auto PartsYouTube · Apr 18, 2019

• Physical feel: A spongy, loose, or otherwise different feeling in the switch compared to the others can indicate a problem. 
• Master switch issues: If the other windows only work from the master switch, but not from their own door switches, the individual switches may be faulty. 
• Lack of power: If you press the switch and observe that your car's interior lights or dashboard indicators do not dim at all, it could mean the switch is not sending power to the motor. 
• The window moves: If you can confirm the window moves when using a different switch (like the master switch), the original window's switch is the likely culprit. 

How to diagnose a bad motor or regulator 
This video shows how to test if a window motor is working by bypassing the switch: 1mTop 5 Auto RepairsYouTube · Jun 6, 2023

• Motor noise: A grinding, clicking, or squealing noise coming from the door when you press the switch often indicates a problem with the motor or the window regulator, which is the mechanical part that lifts the glass. 
• Motor sound but no movement: If you hear the motor running (a humming sound) but the window doesn't move at all, the motor is likely bad. 
• Slow or jerky movement: A window that moves very slowly, jerks, or gets stuck halfway is often a sign of a struggling motor or a faulty regulator. 
• Burning smell: A burning smell coming from the door panel can indicate the motor is overheating and is on its way to failing. 

What to check first
You can watch this video to learn how to test a power window circuit: 58sJustin MillerYouTube · Mar 13, 2015

• Check the fuse: Before replacing any parts, it's a good idea to check the fuse for the power windows to make sure it hasn't blown. 
• Test all switches: Press the switch for the problem window and then test all other window switches. If other windows work correctly, the problem is isolated to that one window's switch, motor, or regulator.